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Aduro · (This post was last modified: 10/10/2010 08:05 by Aduro.)

For those who don't know, a Quick Action throttle is essentially a throttle tube with a wider diameter than that of your stock tube, the advantages of this is that the distance the throttle must travel from closed to full lock is shorter, giving you more sensitive throttle control.
They don't make a kit for the 250 unsurprisingly.
This is a ridiculously simple Mod, that really doesn't really require a walk through, but nonetheless here we go.

Other than some basic tools, you'll need these:
(all photos were taken by a noob with a point and shoot, excuse the odd blurriness.

Note the 2.5mm thickness of the cable ties. One size up from this might be workable, any more than that and you may have clearance problems as well as oversensitivity.

Remove your bar end, you'll need a hex key or hex key bit for this.

Once the bar end is off, unscrew the throttle housing via these two screws.

With the two screws and the top housing removed you should see this:

This is your throttle tube with the two upper ends of your throttle cables. (duh)

Locate your throttle adjuster and screw it all the way in to allow maximum slack in the cable itself. The Adjuster looks like this:

Once adjusted all the way in it will look like this:

You need as much slack in the cable as you can get, makes it much easier to remove/replace the hammer ends of the cables.
I found it easier to remove the rear cable first.
It took a couple goes, try gripping the cable (gently) with some needle nose pliers while you twist the throttle to get some more slack on the rear cable.

Once the rear cable was removed the front kinda pulled itself out.
You should now see this:

Slide the throttle tube off completely. Now degrease that sucker! Probably a good idea to degrease the inside of your clip-on to mine was pretty rank.

Dry your throttle tube and grip thoroughly and set aside.

Take your cable ties and cut three lengths about 50mm long (there is only two pictured cuz I realized I needed the third later.)
The ties dont have to be long enough to wrap the whole tube as the cable only contacts the first 30-50mm or so.

Cut another piece so its length is equal to the combined width of the first three. This shorter piece will be perpendicular to the first three when glued down as it will be the first to contact the throttle cable.

Your probably going to want to preform your ties a little, otherwise they'll be a bitch to stick down to the curved surface of the tube.
Use your fingers or alternatively wrap them around your pliers, excellent I say.

or

To get this:

Set these aside and pick up your throttle tube again.
It should be dry and relatively clean. The surface of mine wasn't as smooth as I wanted so to ensure a good smooth surface to glue to i cleaned it up with a file. ( yes that's a nail file)

Make sure the surface is nice and clean, apply a thin film of the glue. (if your using the epic Loctite stuff you need fuck all and only need to clamp the piece for about 5 seconds)

Place your smallest piece as shown and hold firmly for as long as required for your glue.

Glue your other three pieces down as shown, (do these one by one)

Allow to cure and your pretty much done.
Reassemble in the reverse order you removed the cables etc.

Inside the top half of the throttle housing there's a little nub ( mine was pretty much ground off though) that is meant to fit into this hole I believe:

When reassembling ensure the housing is close enough to the switchblock, otherwise your bar end will cause the throttle to stick once you tighten everything up.
Adjust your throttle by winding your throttle adjuster out while testing the slack.

ENSURE YOU THROTTLE DOES NOT STICK IN ANY POSITION.

Test throttle with bars locked in both directions, throttle stick can be lethal while performing a turn.

Now, was it worth it?

I reckon so, the difference was noticeable but not outrageous or difficult to adjust to. I didn't notice the shorter closed to open lock distance as much as I thought I would, though I only rode her round a couple of blocks.
I did however notice the increased sensitivity while moving off and in the middle of the rev range, improved rev matching on downshift too as the input required from my wrists was less.

A healthy mix between placebo and performance Tongue