Chain maintenance and adjustment? ( Cannot find straight answer)

[Pronto]

Just a few nooby questions from me.

What is a good interval to aim for when cleaning and re lubing the chain? I have heard that 1000kms is fair.

When cleaning the chain, is kerosene the best solvent to use so as to avoid o-ring destruction?

When adjusting the chain, what tension should you aim for? I have heard that 1 inch play is a good set point.

I am asking these questions as I believe that my chain is loose and I need to adjust it when i buy a rear stand (Hopefully this Friday). It seems to have quite a bit of play (over an inch) and I want to avoid sprocket and chain damage. Is it relatively easy to adjust? It's just a simple: loosen, move, align straight and tighten job ?

I have purchased some of this, as it was quite reasonably priced and i don't care much if it 'flicks off' as i intend to get into a chain maintenance routine anyway.


I know I am asking a lot of basic question's here, but hopefully it will help others when they get their first bike. If a thread like this exists, please link me to it. I did some searching, but was unable to find everything i needed.

P.S. Is Wd40 ok to use when cleaning filth out of the front sprocket housing or will it damage the chain?

Cheers people!

[bushati]

I personally use old rags and kerosene to clean my chain and DuPont Teflon multi purpose lube to lube it. I don't know if you guys have that over there but when it comes down to it most chain lubes are fine. Although there are ones that make cleaning a bit harder. Hence why I use the teflon lube as it's really easy to clean and goes on clear. The one you bought should be fine.

If you want your chain to last long then yeah clean and lube it every 800-1200kms. Start by loosening the axle bolt. You don't need to take anything out just loosen. Then preferably lift up the rear with a stand. The adjusters are at the end of the swingarm. They have a 8mm bolt that you will either loosen or tighten depending on your chain slack.

Now put the bike in neutral and go on the left hand side of it. Guesstimate where the midpoint between the small and large sprocket would be. This is where you will measure the slack. But first you need to find the tight spot in the chain. The chain will be tighter and looser at different points due to wear so rotate the rear wheel with your hand until you feel it. Remember to stay at that midpoint. Once you find the tightest spot measure it's slack.

The manual says 15-25mm. If it needs adjusting use the two adjuster to get the right slack. You'll need to adjust them simultaneously. So one turn on one adjuster should mean the same for the other. They need to be aligned or your wheel will be crooked. Do this by checking the marks or notches on each adjuster. Once your chain is adjusted tighten the axle bolt to spec and you're good to go.

As far as the wd40 question, it's fine to clean around the chain with it. If you want put some kerosine in a squirt bottle and use a toothbrush to clean whatever. Oh and before you do all this, it would be good if your chain was warm. So take it for a 10min ride if you need to.

[Lane]

Give the chain a spray at least every 500km, 1000km is a good interval for cleaning.

Kerosene works fine, use it.

25mm of play is spot on.

Yes, just loosen the axle, back off 8mm adjusters (clockwise slackens chain) and tighten. Make sure the marks on each guide are even.

WD40 is fine to clean the sprocket housing although a $2 can of degreaser is just as effective.

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^ beat me to it.

[fatboy]

I also heard that you're supposed to check chain slack when sitting on the bike (one needs to be pretty flexible to be able to do this ). I think this makes sense, but anyone cares to clarify whether it's true or is 25mm of slack with no one on a bike accounts for that?

Another rumoured technique is that one can can measure the distance from the swingarm bolt to the rear axle bolt (center to center on either side) to make sure the wheel is straight. Which is supposed to be more precise/foolproof than the marks on the adjuster.

[Lane]

It's true that marks on the adjuster are not always exact, however the difference on most bike is negligible.

Measuring to the swingarm pivot can work as well as stringlining it.

[Callum Mc]

(11/01/2012 01:14)fatboy Wrote:  I also heard that you're supposed to check chain slack when sitting on the bike (one needs to be pretty flexible to be able to do this ). I think this makes sense, but anyone cares to clarify whether it's true or is 25mm of slack with no one on a bike accounts for that?

Another rumoured technique is that one can can measure the distance from the swingarm bolt to the rear axle bolt (center to center on either side) to make sure the wheel is straight. Which is supposed to be more precise/foolproof than the marks on the adjuster.

ding ding ding, we have a winner.

Check your chain tightness while you are sitting on it, not as hard as you may think, the chain is fairly close to you when you sit on it.
Im 6'2" and fat, and I dont have a problem reaching it to check.
I lube every 500kms and clean 1000kms, if im not too lazy, alse I check the tightness of the chain when I lube it.

[Pronto]

Awesome, thank you very much for your responses guys; appreciate it. I am itching to ride the bike, but am afraid I may damage something since I think the chain is loose. I am going to buy a paddock stand on Friday as well as some tools.

I will post pics up of my progress as I know I have Friday off now!

I also have much cleaning planned, as I am quite a bit of a clean freak. Like this guy....

[roobars]

That lube is fine, if you ride daily I would suggest lubing once a fortnight, and cleaning the fling after your first 15 min ride... I just started using that lube, works well, but is a bit of a prick to clean. Also... place a rag under the chain and catch the arterial spray with it and lube in sections. It makes a bloddy mess, not like the bel-ray non fling wax I had... but I don't rate that for chain protection... my chain is almost stretched enough to need replacing and I have only got 10K on the bike.

Thats a good way to align your wheels too, chances are your 250 is not straight

My mate has a 954 and got 50k out of his chain and sprockets (originals) by just dripping a thimble of gear oil over the chain (your lube is basically aerosol gear oil). He rides hard also, he was a motocross semi-pro in his day.

[Reaper]

this may seem obvious but... when cleaning/ tightening your chain, never EVER put your hand at the top of the chain when cleaning with a rag. your finger will end up in your sprocket and that will suck balls.

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assuming you are pulling the tyre down (which is by far easiest) just thought i'd clarify that

[Pronto]

(11/01/2012 10:13)roobars Wrote:  That lube is fine, if you ride daily I would suggest lubing once a fortnight, and cleaning the fling after your first 15 min ride... I just started using that lube, works well, but is a bit of a prick to clean. Also... place a rag under the chain and catch the arterial spray with it and lube in sections. It makes a bloddy mess, not like the bel-ray non fling wax I had... but I don't rate that for chain protection... my chain is almost stretched enough to need replacing and I have only got 10K on the bike.

Great! Nice to see someone has tested the product i decided to buy/be a cheap skate.

How do you know if the chain is too stretched? When it no longer fits with the rear axle out as far as it goes?

(11/01/2012 10:31)Reaper Wrote:  this may seem obvious but... when cleaning/ tightening your chain, never EVER put your hand at the top of the chain when cleaning with a rag. your finger will end up in your sprocket and that will suck balls.

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assuming you are pulling the tyre down (which is by far easiest) just thought i'd clarify that

Lol, I learn't that lesson the hard way when I was I jammed my fingers in chain of my first bike...

Cheers for heads up though.