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Thread: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

  1. #1
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    Exclamation New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    Hi Guys. I know there are already a lot of indicator threads, but I have a few questions that I need assistance with.

    I have stock rear indicators and arrow front indicators (Non LED) I would to change the whole lot to match.

    1. LED indicators - What are peoples opinion good or no good?
    2. How hard is it to wire up the indicators?
    3. Does anyone recommend a certain product?

    Any information would be great.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Biker OfficerFlake's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    I have LED's, they require a bit of work in regards to making them compatible, but once done, it's a solid investment as any replacement indicators can be any type.

    Replacing indicators is easy: pull out the two bullet clips, and replace. To wire an LED is a bit harder (and there are tutorials around here).

    No product recommendations from me, I'm justing using egay indicators atm. They do alright.

  3. #3
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    Quote Originally Posted by OfficerFlake
    I have LED's, they require a bit of work in regards to making them compatible, but once done, it's a solid investment as any replacement indicators can be any type.

    Replacing indicators is easy: pull out the two bullet clips, and replace. To wire an LED is a bit harder (and there are tutorials around here).

    No product recommendations from me, I'm justing using egay indicators atm. They do alright.
    Cool. My Brother is an electrician so i may get him to wire them up for me. Do you have to pruchase additional items with the LED indicators or does it usually come with everything?

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  5. #4
    Biker XCite's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    I'm yet to see an aftermarket indicator that is bright enough under the sun light. I have tested close to a dozen, none satisfied me. Yes, you can see most of the time, but if they don't call enough attention in a bright sunny day, it defeats the purpose of having indicators at all. Make sure you get good ones.

  6. #5
    Biker OfficerFlake's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    LED Indicators rarely come with the right parts. I had to replace my indicator relay and install load resistors.

    OEM Indicators resist about 8.2ohms stock, LED's resist next to 0. You need to simulate the OEM indicators (a la load resistor) to make the flashers work properly. Even with an aftermarket indicator relay, the current was still arcing across and powering the opposite side LED's (So I had hazard lights.)

    Get your leccy friend to solder you 2 10W15RJ resisters in parallel * 2 (4 resistors in total, 2 units). Then, install the resistors in the middle of a bullet clip circuit (you make a capital H out of the wires, with the resistors becoming the center of the H.) Then, plug your indicator into the top of the H, and the bottom of the H into the wiring loom.

    One H for each indicator, and that'll do it.

    Best to look up a picture explanation by searching the forum.

    And Omar is so very right about LED's from china. Not very bright at all. Don't go riding in the middle of the city at 2pm with them unless you buy a decent pair (mine seem to be alright though. Not great, but what do you expect from china...)

  7. #6
    Junior Biker falcopops's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    I've just had a quick look at the wiring diagram and the RR seems to have the same issue as my Aprilia Falco where the indicators are concerned.

    The dash warning light is hooked into both left and right circuits, so if you don't soak up enough current with low powered LED set ups there's enough left in the circuit to rung through the dash light, light it up then light up the other indicators too.

    To resolve this on the Aprilia I had to change the wiring at the dash light to include a couple of diodes to remove the path between circuits. I also used an electronic relay so I didn't need to use load resistors (helps to save some volts and amps).

    I'll try to lash up a sketch of what needs to be done to sort this out, but I'm at work and this will take a bit of effort.

  8. #7
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    Search and there are some pics on what to do.
    http://cbr250.com/forum/thread-8916.html?highlight=led
    Recently did this after going to led.

    Mine are ebay specials and plenty bright. But they are more of a frosted cover so the whole thing lights up orange. Not the leds refracting in bubly plastic.

  9. #8
    Junior Biker falcopops's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    The whole idea of using LEDS is that they use less energy, or maybe because they look cool. So why would you whack in a great big fuck off parallel resistors to draw the same current as an incandescent bulb to make your LEDís work? Well mostly because if you donít, they wonít work, or they flash too fast, or they all flash at once, or they all just come on and stay on, etc. etc.

    Hereís the problem:-

    In the 1st picture Iíve just identified all the wires that comprise the indicator circuit (left and right). I guessed at the colours from the letters on the diagram, I may be wrong so please confirm them for yourself.

    This is what I think they are:-
    • G Ė Green Ė earth wiring.
      Bl/Br Ė Black/Brown (Iíve used brown) Ė live from fuse to flasher unit.
      Gr Ė Grey Ė link from flasher unit to switch.
      A Ė Blue Ė Left indicator circuit.
      LB Ė Light Blue Ė Right indicator circuit.


    You should be able to see that the telltale light on the dash is connected to both indicator circuits (blue and light blue) and has no connection to earth.


    The next two pics show the current flow that lights the left and right indicators (red line) then returns to earth (black dashed line). The path the current takes after lighting up the dash light is shown in the dotted redline. It can only find its way to earth through the indicator bulbs in the other circuit. In normal use the bulbs gobble up 31.7w of power (2@15w and 1@1.7w) so thereís not enough left to light the bulbs on the other circuit.




    When you use LEDís they use up bugger all current, so thereís plenty left hurtling around the wiring to fire up the opposite circuit on its way to earth.

    Also the flasher relay relies on a bi-metallic strip getting hot due to the current passing through it which causes it to bend and break the connection to the indicators (current stops, light go out, bi-metallic strip cools and straightens, connection is remade, current flows, strip gets hot, etc.). With LEDs the current draw is so little the bi-metallic strip doesnít get hot so it canít flash.

    So an electronic relay will fix that, right?

    It will fix the flash, but due to the interconnected wiring above it will make all lights flash at the same time.

    Hereís the Solution:-

    This fix requires minor wiring modifications a couple of diodes and an electronic flasher relay.

    Disclaimers 1st.

    1) Iím not an auto electrician. Iíve done loads of electrics on cars and bikes and none of them have melted, caught fire or electrocuted anyone.
    2) I have not done this modification on a CBR250, but I have done it on my Aprilia Falco and it works.
    3) Iíve guessed at the wiring colours from the 250rr diagram I downloaded, if youíre going to do this confirm the wiring layout and colours 1st.
    4) If you do this you do it at your own risk and if it all goes horribly wrong, unlucky, Iím taking no responsibility.

    I hate writing all that crap, but I tried to help out a mate of a mate once (who canít walk and chew gum at the same time) and he got proper arsey when I was helping him from the end of a phone. I told him to disconnect the battery at step 1, but he clearly knew better and didnít, then when he dropped a live wire on his frame that promptly melted to it and fried half his loom it was all my fault, twat!

    Anyway, as mentioned youíll need an electronic flasher relay and 2 diodes, the ability to solder and some heatshrink.

    These diodes are perfect for the job (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1004) and only 50 cents for 4 from Jaycar get the heatshrink when youíre there. Diodes are one way electrical valves. Current can flow out of the end with the silver bar, but canít flow back against it.

    I suggest getting a relay that can handle a range of bulb types (non-load sensitive). A purely LED version wonít be able to deal with the current pulled by a normal bulb, so youíll be stuck with LEDís. This one will work http://www.bl-led.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_35&produ cts_id=96 and is $12.
    The pins on the electronic flasher can be labelled E, L and B (Earth, Live and Bulb) or 31, 49 and 49a (Earth, Live, Bulb), you will need to make sure these are correctly located in the existing loom connector.

    This is the wiring change you need to make. (the triangle with the bar is the Diode symbol current can flow in the direction of the arrow/triangle, but canít flow against the bar.)


    The blue and light blue feeds from the left and right indicator circuits need to be cut and joined to feed one side of the dash bulb. Putting a diode in each wire and joining the ends with the silver bars together means no crossing of the current.

    This is my Aprilia wiring imagine the red wire is blue, the other one is light blue already so thatís a bonus.



    Use the wire at the other end of the dash bulb to splice to earth to complete the circuit.
    Again my Aprilia wiring light blue is the other end of the dash bulb and the blue/green wire is the earth, green on the Honda.


    This is the finished Aprilia wiring.


    Now you should be able to use any combination of LEDs and bulbs without any issues.

  10. #9
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    Quote Originally Posted by falcopops
    The whole idea of using LEDS is that they use less energy, or maybe because they look cool. So why would you whack in a great big fuck off parallel resistors to draw the same current as an incandescent bulb to make your LEDís work? Well mostly because if you donít, they wonít work, or they flash too fast, or they all flash at once, or they all just come on and stay on, etc. etc.

    Hereís the problem:-

    In the 1st picture Iíve just identified all the wires that comprise the indicator circuit (left and right). I guessed at the colours from the letters on the diagram, I may be wrong so please confirm them for yourself.

    This is what I think they are:-
    • G Ė Green Ė earth wiring.
      Bl/Br Ė Black/Brown (Iíve used brown) Ė live from fuse to flasher unit.
      Gr Ė Grey Ė link from flasher unit to switch.
      A Ė Blue Ė Left indicator circuit.
      LB Ė Light Blue Ė Right indicator circuit.


    You should be able to see that the telltale light on the dash is connected to both indicator circuits (blue and light blue) and has no connection to earth.


    The next two pics show the current flow that lights the left and right indicators (red line) then returns to earth (black dashed line). The path the current takes after lighting up the dash light is shown in the dotted redline. It can only find its way to earth through the indicator bulbs in the other circuit. In normal use the bulbs gobble up 31.7w of power (2@15w and 1@1.7w) so thereís not enough left to light the bulbs on the other circuit.




    When you use LEDís they use up bugger all current, so thereís plenty left hurtling around the wiring to fire up the opposite circuit on its way to earth.

    Also the flasher relay relies on a bi-metallic strip getting hot due to the current passing through it which causes it to bend and break the connection to the indicators (current stops, light go out, bi-metallic strip cools and straightens, connection is remade, current flows, strip gets hot, etc.). With LEDs the current draw is so little the bi-metallic strip doesnít get hot so it canít flash.

    So an electronic relay will fix that, right?

    It will fix the flash, but due to the interconnected wiring above it will make all lights flash at the same time.

    Hereís the Solution:-

    This fix requires minor wiring modifications a couple of diodes and an electronic flasher relay.

    Disclaimers 1st.

    1) Iím not an auto electrician. Iíve done loads of electrics on cars and bikes and none of them have melted, caught fire or electrocuted anyone.
    2) I have not done this modification on a CBR250, but I have done it on my Aprilia Falco and it works.
    3) Iíve guessed at the wiring colours from the 250rr diagram I downloaded, if youíre going to do this confirm the wiring layout and colours 1st.
    4) If you do this you do it at your own risk and if it all goes horribly wrong, unlucky, Iím taking no responsibility.

    I hate writing all that crap, but I tried to help out a mate of a mate once (who canít walk and chew gum at the same time) and he got proper arsey when I was helping him from the end of a phone. I told him to disconnect the battery at step 1, but he clearly knew better and didnít, then when he dropped a live wire on his frame that promptly melted to it and fried half his loom it was all my fault, twat!

    Anyway, as mentioned youíll need an electronic flasher relay and 2 diodes, the ability to solder and some heatshrink.

    These diodes are perfect for the job (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1004) and only 50 cents for 4 from Jaycar get the heatshrink when youíre there. Diodes are one way electrical valves. Current can flow out of the end with the silver bar, but canít flow back against it.

    I suggest getting a relay that can handle a range of bulb types (non-load sensitive). A purely LED version wonít be able to deal with the current pulled by a normal bulb, so youíll be stuck with LEDís. This one will work http://www.bl-led.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_35&produ cts_id=96 and is $12.
    The pins on the electronic flasher can be labelled E, L and B (Earth, Live and Bulb) or 31, 49 and 49a (Earth, Live, Bulb), you will need to make sure these are correctly located in the existing loom connector.

    This is the wiring change you need to make. (the triangle with the bar is the Diode symbol current can flow in the direction of the arrow/triangle, but canít flow against the bar.)


    The blue and light blue feeds from the left and right indicator circuits need to be cut and joined to feed one side of the dash bulb. Putting a diode in each wire and joining the ends with the silver bars together means no crossing of the current.

    This is my Aprilia wiring imagine the red wire is blue, the other one is light blue already so thatís a bonus.



    Use the wire at the other end of the dash bulb to splice to earth to complete the circuit.
    Again my Aprilia wiring light blue is the other end of the dash bulb and the blue/green wire is the earth, green on the Honda.


    This is the finished Aprilia wiring.


    Now you should be able to use any combination of LEDs and bulbs without any issues.
    Hey Mate. thank you for the detailed resposne. My brother adn I did these last night. he is an electrician and all we did was unplug old indicators and run them through the resistor and plug them in and they are working fine.

  11. #10
    Biker OfficerFlake's Avatar
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    RE: New Indicators - 92 CBR250RR

    This is a very good and well informed post.

    Shit cunt, what are you trying to do, put Tony out of work?

    Haha, I love it man, if you have any more electechnical know-hows, please share them.

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